Classifying and Clarifying German Wine w/ Theresa Olkus & Steffen Christmann, VDP

Having existed through the glory and the doldrums of German wine, the VDP, the association of top wine growers in Germany, has set out to re-establish German wine as one of the finest in the world. With 20 years under its belt, the Grosses Gewachs (“GG”) system has elevated the status of dry German wines in a short time. Theresa Olkus, Managing Director, and Steffen Christmann, President, discuss the history, goals, and role of the VDP and how the GG classification is bringing quality back to dry German wine. 

Detailed Show Notes: 

Verband Deutscher Prädikats- und Qualitätsweingüter (“VDP”)

• “P” standards for quality, those looking to produce top wines from top vineyards
• The goal is to bring the global recognition of German wines back to when the wines were considered some of the best in the world
• 201 members (2023), up from 160 members (1990)
• 10 regional associations

VDP history

• Started end of 19th century
• A movement to counter the industrial winemaking trend
• Created quality requirements (e.g. - estate bottling, wine was sold in auction by the barrel and bottled elsewhere; no additions except sulfur, sugar was added before)
• Post WWI/WWII - cheap, sweet wines became popular
• German Wine Law of 1971 - created quality classification based on must weights, varietal agnostic, leading to consumer confusion
• The late 70s/early 80s - German wine quality sank (yields too high), and the law created consumer label confusion, leading to VDP revamp, focus on vineyard sites

Joining the VDP

• 1990-2023 - 130 new members, 1-2 new members/year
• Must fulfill criteria, blind tasting, vineyard, and cellar inspection
• You can’t apply or buy a membership; a region must invite a winery

Benefits for VDP members

• Knowledge sharing 
• Leveraging the VDP brand (eagle logo) - an international sign of quality
• VDP events and marketing
• Exporting expertise - 27% of VDP wines exported

Leaving the VDP

• 1-2 members/year leave
• Most coached to leave
• Mostly leave post generational change - don’t want to follow VDP rules, quality not at the top level

Dry German wines

• Traditional style before 1900
• Germans drink as much dry as anywhere else in the world, and the reputation for sweet wines is an international perspective
• Historically - 2-3% potential abv difference between entry-level and best wines. Today, due to climate change, the sugar levels are the same; only the yields and quality of site create differences
• ~60-70% of VDP members don’t make sweet wines, Mosel/Nahe most make sweet, Rheinghau ~20-30% do sweet

Grosses Gewächs (“GG”)

• 2002 - implemented in all regions, started w/ Rheingau 1994/5, Pfalz 1996
• Created positive brand for dry German wines - increase in the average price of GG wines - 2002 - €16, 2023 - €40 (range from €25-150+)
• German market response was positive, creating pride in German wines
• UK pushback - writers thought dry German wines were too sour and lacked quality; last to adopt the new style, only in the last 5 years
• Scandinavia - a hot spot for German wine
• Elements for GG success - wineries can only make 1 GG wine from 1 Grosses Lage site; wines have gotten better
• Significant markets for GG - used to be Northern Europe, Asia (China, S Korea, Thailand, Singapore)
• Africa/India/S America - not strong for German wines
• More than Riesling - Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Silvaner

The next priorities for VDP

• Renewing German Wine Law, potentially moving VDP classification into law
• Sustainability/climate change

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