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A crisp shell gets filled, and a regional story takes shape. Pani Puri history brings together regional variations, vendors, and their customers, while leaving room for uncertainty about its origins.
Quick recipe Makes: 4 servings; 24–30 puris Ingredients: 24–30 ready-made crisp pani puri shells; 2–3 medium potatoes; 1 cup coriander leaves, plus 1 tablespoon chopped coriander; 1/2 cup mint leaves; 1 inch ginger; 1 green chilli; 1 tablespoon tamarind; 3.5–4 tablespoons jaggery; 2 teaspoons each roasted cumin powder and chaat masala, divided; Salt to taste; 1/3 cup water for blending, plus 1–1.25 cups Method: 1. Boil potatoes until tender; peel and chop. 2. Mix potatoes with chopped coriander, half each spice and salt. 3. Rinse herbs, ginger and chilli; chop. 4. Blend these with tamarind, jaggery, remaining spices, salt and 1/3 cup water. 5. Stir in remaining water, adjust seasoning and refrigerate. 6. Crack each shell, add filling and stirred pani, and eat immediately. Note: A contemporary home version; optional separate sweet chutney is omitted.